I have now been in Istanbul for nearly a week, and have been amazed at how warm and friendly the people are here. They are generous with their time, and proud to share their local cuisine and culture. When I travel for work I occasionally get out to see some of the city I am working in, but usually it’s after dark and I rarely get to do any of the touristy things like visit landmarks or museums. I do, however get out to a fair amount of restaurants and bars as the evenings are the only times I get a chance to leave the hotel.
One night our video & lighting techs took us to a local restaurant a few blocks from the hotel. This restaurant appeared to be small without any room for us, but we followed our hosts into the back of the restaurant and up a flight of stairs to another floor of dining, which was full. We continued up another flight and another to find a table. I have since learned that this is common among many dining establishments here, where they expand upward. Entering them sometimes feels like using a parking garage.

Turkish appetizers
Once we found a seat our hosts ordered traditional turkish appetizers which we all shared.

Chee Kufta

One of my hosts preparing some Chee Kufka for me
My favorite dish was Chee Kufta, which is spiced raw meat that is rolled into a lettuce leaf with a little fresh lemon. Very tasty and a bit spicy. The Chee Kufta at this restaurant was better then a dish I had later, so the taste does seem to vary.

Adana Kebab
My main dish was an Adana Kebab. I had one of these at my hotel my first night there, and I didn’t care for it much. I decided to try it again as I was truly in a locals place, and again found it not to my liking. I am not really sure what they spice this kebab with, but whenever I come across this flavor is a dish I find it more and more distasteful, rather than something I get more accustom to.

Ayran
To drink we had Ayran, which is water mixed with yogurt and a little salt added. It’s probably an acquired taste. It was ok, but too sour for my tastes, but I am glad I tried it. The copper cup, I think, added a flavor to the taste. I couldn’t say if that made it better or worse had I tried it in a glass.
After dinner we went down another block to a beer house where we met up with our video tech’s wife and a couple of her friends from her company. We spent a few hours drinking the local beer, Efes, and sharing stories. Afterwards we stopped at an outdoor cafe for some Turkish tea. It is very common to finish off an evening with a small glass of tea. Apparently you ca’t get this in a decaffeinated form, so I have not tried this. Despite being relatively cool and after 11pm, the cafe was quite crowded with people enjoying their tea. This may have been in part because there is no smoking allowed in most establishments, including the beer house where we were at, so many people where enjoying cigarettes with their tea.

Raki
A very popular local drink is Raki, a liquor with a strong licorice or anise flavor. I have found that I really enjoy this drink and intend to bring several bottles home from this trip.

A night out with the locals
Another evening we were invited to join some of the crew to go to a bar where one of their friends was celebrating a birthday. More of their friends gathered as the evening went on, and nearly all of them spoke english well, with many of them having lived for a year or more in the US at some point. All of them were friendly, always trying to include us in the conversation.
Overall I am really enjoying my time here in Istanbul. If all of Turkey is as open and friendly as they are here in Istanbul then America truly has a poor understanding of this country and the muslim people. I will not be heading for home for another five days, but I’m already looking forward to when I can return.

Tags: Ayran, Che Kufka, Istanbul, Raki, Turkey, Turkish Cuisine
I’m in Istanbul this week and next working on a meeting. This is my first trip to this city, and to Turkey. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but had pre-conceived notions that it would very Muslim influenced. To a certain extent that is true, but I find the city to be much more European in it’s feel. I imagine as you go further east in the country onto the Asian continent that the Muslim influence is stronger. I am in the part of Istanbul that is on the European continent but Istanbul is also part of Asia, making it the only city in the world to span across two continents.

But there are reminders of the Muslim heritage here. The skyline is dotted with mosques, including the famous Blue Mosque, which I can see from my hotel window (but not so well that I would include my own picture of it here). Morning prayers are broadcast across the city at 5am, and then at other times throughout the day, but because I am in the hotel ballroom most of the day I rarely hear it. Most people on the street are dressed fairly contemporary, but there is also a fair percentage of women wearing a hijab.
Security in the hotels is a little tighter than what you would experience elsewhere. Often cars need to stop before they pull up to the entrance, and a guard will scan the underside of the vehicle with a mirror and some kind of sensor. When walking into the hotel everyone walks through a metal detector alongside an X-ray machine for bags. This is a little daunting at first, but at the hotel I’m staying at they’re pretty relaxed about it. When people walk through the detector while talking on their cell phones security doesn’t seem to care.

The hotel rooms are typical, but one difference is that there is a compass rose in the bottom of the desk drawer so people know which way north is when it’s time to pray.

An interesting bit of censorship on the television – all cigarettes, pipes, cigars, and other smokable things are blurred out. They were showing Quiz Show the other day, and the period piece had a lot of smoking, so a lot of blurred mouths and hands. Very amusing, since nearly everyone here smokes.
Tags: Istanbul, Turkey